![]() Finish by wiping down the table with a tack cloth so it’s free of dust, then sand the surface again, this time with your 120-grit, to polish the wood. You can sand by hand, but a mechanical sander makes the job go, ahem, much smoother. Starting with the roughest sandpaper (60-grit), sand in the direction of the grain. Sand down the table after with an 80- to 120-grit sandpaper to ensure that the surface is as smooth as possible.Īlternatively, use coarse sandpaper to remove the original top coat from the table. Once the stripper softens the finish, run a putty knife or scraper along the grain of the wood to remove the first finish. In general, you’ll want to wear rubber gloves and long sleeves and work in a well-ventilated area. You can use a chemical stripper to remove the original coats of paint or stain just make sure you’re following proper instructions on the product label. When it comes to the old finish, you’ve got a few options. ![]() Use standard cleaning supplies, like an all-purpose cleaner. Before you strip the current finish, thoroughly clean the entire table to remove any dirt, oil, or grease, Otherwise, you’ll be grinding the debris into the wood as you sand. The biggest mistake first-timers make with refinishing is not reserving enough time to clean, or prep the surface. ![]() If you’re not sure what kind of wood surface you’re working with, Hamm recommends looking at the grain of the wood: “If it repeats across the width of the grain, it’s veneer, because it’s been rotary-sliced off a single log to make a sheet.” Step 2: Clean your wood table Refinishing laminate won’t work-it’s plastic. Solid wood is a better candidate for refinishing than veneer, which tends to be thinner.
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